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The arm actuators seen in Figure 14-6 were donated by Motion Systems These actuators have 3 inches of throw, which gives us about 70 degrees of travel, enough to flip the robot upright When the robot is flipped, it rests on the nails, and the process of raising the arm rolls the robot back onto its wheels When the arm is lowered, the hook part fits neatly between the saw blades, allowing the saws to do their work Raising the arm provides 70 pounds of lifting force, which should be enough to pick up an opponent and allow the saws to cut away at its underside The lifting arm can also be used as an upper jaw The pressing force of the motors of this upper jaw can trap an opponent between it and the lower jaw prow Saw-like teeth welded to the underside of the arm and the top of the prow makes a mouth, making Chew Toy live up to his name When we designed our armor, our focus was on our weight class and our potential opponents We were influenced by other robot designs we saw online One robot, The Missing Link, had a huge and nasty circular cutoff wheel on its front These wheels, which were designed to cut through steel, could cut through Chew Toy s frame without slowing However, cutoff wheels bog down and get jammed when cutting through wood So we attached thick pine 2-by-4s as part of Chew Toy s armor This would slow The Missing Link and any other robot using weapons designed to cut steel Many builders don t perceive wood to be good armor Actually, a thick piece of pine is hard to cut through, especially if it is attached to a robot that is fighting back Robots mounting large-toothed, wood-cutting blades have a good chance against Chew Toy s pine armor (though, if I can help it, he ll never stand still long enough to give them the chance!) The nails attached to the pine 2-by-4 provide additional protection Saws trying to cut through the wood may hit the nails, causing them to jam, break, or lose teeth The combination of nails in wood makes cheap, yet effective, armor though, granted, it s not pretty.

sets of wires together For instance, in the security cable we pulled, there are red, white, green, and black wires To perform the continuity test, twist the red and white wires together, then twist the green and black wires together (as shown in Figure 5-15) Next, connect a multimeter to the wires on the other end of the cable run Select the 0 to 100 ohms resistance range, then place one test lead on each conductor at the end of the cabling A reading of more than 28 ohms per 100 feet of cable indicates that there is damaged cabling

5

FIGURE 14-6

Figure 5-15

Table 5-6 Aerodynamic Drag F orce F d at Different V ehicle Speeds for T ypical Vehicle C d and A V alues

14:

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cabling is to connect a 9-volt battery to the cable, using alligator clips Then, using the multimeter, set the detector to a DC voltage of 20V Measure the voltage coming out of the battery for a baseline reading (it s rare that the voltage will be precisely 9V) Next, place one test lead on each conductor end, then measure the voltage If the voltage difference is more than 5V for every 100 feet, the cable is damaged or defective Figure 5-16 illustrates this The battery method tends to be the more popular, chiefly because the ends of the cabling need not be twisted together

Figure 5-16

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As with any trade, installers have their own shortcuts that have developed over time One such shortcut eliminates the multimeter from the battery method Instead, installers simply touch the ends of cable to their tongues Naturally, we re not endorsing this method (not only is it unsafe, but how can they tell the difference between 65V and 83V ), but as soon as you heard that a 9V battery was used, this possibility had to have popped into your mind Now that you know the cast of characters for home security systems, turn the page to 6 and we ll start drilling holes in things (including a very expensive maple floor!), pulling cable through them, and connecting wire after wire after wire

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